It's not even 10am, and my watch has already buzzed to let me know I've completed my 10,000 daily steps, which strikes me as slightly odd, considering I've spent the best part of the morning in the back seat of a mini tour bus, motioning towards one of the Philippines's postcard landmarks. Driving around Bohol is a bumpy ride, but one well worth the dubious fitness stats as we arrive at the Chocolate Hills.
Here, the real steps kick in as we climb the 200-ish stairs to the viewing point (hiking the hills is not permitted) over about 1,776 grass-covered limestone mounds. A select few are in the transitional phase from their lush green in cooler months to their famous chocolatey-brown shade once sun-kissed by summer.
As I read the information plaque, I'm interrupted by a Filipino journalist who is on the same trip as me, and is also a first-time visitor to Bohol. He lets our group in on the legend of two feuding giants who, one rainy day, threw fistfuls of mud at each other from the north and south edges of the land, leading to the creation of each hill. Not only is it a much more captivating story than the official information, it serves as a moment that sets the tone for what will be our whistle-stop exploration of Bohol. Mysticism prevails as we visit ancient caves and spot tiny primates, stroll beautiful beaches, visit historic churches and shop at bustling markets – all in just two days and three nights.
Here's why Bohol (both an island and the name of the wider province which includes a further 75 smaller islands) should be on your island-hopping list, and how to do it right if you only have 48 hours.
Day 1: Sweet like chocolate scenery
After our early morning trip to the Chocolate Hills, we drive another 45 minutes to get a glimpse at another of the island's most famed attractions – tarsiers. At Bohol Enchanted Zoological and Botanical Garden, we make our way through gardens filled with other animals and mythological tales depicted via statues to set sight on these tiny primates – one of the smallest in the world measuring between only three and five inches.
We tread silently to get a glimpse of the endangered species, which we're told are extremely sensitive. Turns out, it's my own stress levels that creep up as other visitors aren't so considerate of the silence rule. Native to the island, tarsiers are a privilege to see up close, even if I left both awed and uneased. I later learn of the sanctuary's efforts across the province, which might be a preferred way for travellers to see these lemur-like cuties if you're zoo-avoidant. With only 5,000 to 10,000 left in the wild, they are protected throughout the country, with conservation efforts such as the Philippine Tarsier Foundation providing a peaceful 8.4-hectare forested sanctuary in Bohol.
Back on the road, we drive past traditional tin-roof houses as mopeds zip in front of us. On the streets, stray dogs roam around and goats tied to fences graze on front-garden grass. We pass a through Bilar Man-Made Forest – the result of a 50-year-old restoration project lining the island with white and red mahogany trees – and soon make it to Loboc River.
Cruising along the waterway here is a memory-in-the-making moment. The water is pristine and surrounding vegetation is more akin to a social media reel than real life. A performer covers The Rivers of Babylon as cruisers sing along, children dance, and families tuck into a buffet of traditional food, with everything from barbecued meats to tofu curry. Sweet-toothed, I overindulge in suman – sweet rice cooked in coconut milk then wrapped in a banana leaf.
After an obligatory stop at a souvenir shop, we head back to Amorita Resort to recuperate, but not before a stroll along Alona Beach – a scenic spot for sunbathing, snorkelling and late-night karaoke sessions.
Day 2: Bohol's caves of wonders
Rising to a rainy day, there's still a buzz in the air as we peer around Panglao Public Market. Feeling for ripe local mangoes and glancing over the piles of hanging kitchen and bathroom staples, I discover banana ketchup; a still-loved recipe and relic of the Second World War that was created by food technologist Maria Y Orosa in 1942, using the tropical fruit in place of tomatoes when access to the tangy fruit was limited across the country.
On today's agenda is a visit to St Augustine Parish Church, where a newer roof and facade sit upon an older stone structure, built beside ruins from a previous house of worship, all hinting at this house of worship's rocky past. Construction began in 1894, but was halted until 1912 due to the Philippine Revolution, which opposed colonial Spanish rule.
The church and its grounds serve as something of a snapshot of the history of the community, culture and country at large. Today, the operational church is a popular spot for tourists of all faiths owing to the art houses within its walls, particularly the striking ceiling mural that depicts Roman Catholic sacraments. The Panglao Watchtower is also here, constructed in 1851, and the tallest of its kind in the country.
From here, we make a quick stop at the Nova Shells Museum, a small building that houses one of the world's largest seashell collections. While it's fascinating to glimpse the South Sea pearl that features on the reverse of the 1,000 peso note, and was declared the nation's gemstone in 1996, it's a stop you can skip unless you have a particular penchant for collecting or viewing shells.
The same can't be said for our next activity – venturing underground to explore Hinagdanan Cave, another spot that comes with its share of lore. Our guide escorts us inside the 100-metre-long cave, telling us how it was discovered by a local farmer, and was also a hiding place for locals evading the Japanese Imperial army during the Second World War – remnants of this use are visible in the modern-day charcoal cave art.
The cave featured in the 1973 action movie Esteban, which propelled it onto the radar of tourists. So influential was the film starring Filipino actors Fernando Poe Jr and Alona Alegre, that the aforementioned Alona Beach is named after the leading lady. Mesmerising as these tidbits are, the cave evokes wonder all by itself thanks to its limestone cavern and warm-water lagoon, where more prepared visitors dive into the waters, while we stick to soaking in the backstory.
After a late lunch overlooking the sea at Bohol Bee Farm restaurant, famed for its ice cream which you'll see sold across the island, we make it back to the resort in time to try a treatment at the Sea Tree Spa before heading to dinner at nearby Bamboo Place. Our group tucks into Filipino classics such as yang chow, bicol express and mango salad, served alongside shisha and live music, and it's the perfect setting for our final evening, and a recap on two days of exploration as we muse over where in the Philippines we'd like to island hop along to next.
Cebu Pacific flies daily from Dubai to Manila. From there, it's a 90-minute flight between Manila and Panglao International Airport, with four flights per day
Company%20profile
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MATCH INFO
Syria v Australia
2018 World Cup qualifying: Asia fourth round play-off first leg
Venue: Hang Jebat Stadium, Malayisa
Kick-off: Thursday, 4.30pm (UAE)
Watch: beIN Sports HD
* Second leg in Australia on October 10
SPEC%20SHEET%3A%20APPLE%20IPHONE%2014
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UPI facts
More than 2.2 million Indian tourists arrived in UAE in 2023
More than 3.5 million Indians reside in UAE
Indian tourists can make purchases in UAE using rupee accounts in India through QR-code-based UPI real-time payment systems
Indian residents in UAE can use their non-resident NRO and NRE accounts held in Indian banks linked to a UAE mobile number for UPI transactions
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2020 Oscars winners: in numbers
- Parasite – 4
- 1917– 3
- Ford v Ferrari – 2
- Joker – 2
- Once Upon a Time ... in Hollywood – 2
- American Factory – 1
- Bombshell – 1
- Hair Love – 1
- Jojo Rabbit – 1
- Judy – 1
- Little Women – 1
- Learning to Skateboard in a Warzone (If You're a Girl) – 1
- Marriage Story – 1
- Rocketman – 1
- The Neighbors' Window – 1
- Toy Story 4 – 1
Bookshops: A Reader's History by Jorge Carrión (translated from the Spanish by Peter Bush),
Biblioasis
Lexus LX700h specs
Engine: 3.4-litre twin-turbo V6 plus supplementary electric motor
Power: 464hp at 5,200rpm
Torque: 790Nm from 2,000-3,600rpm
Transmission: 10-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 11.7L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh590,000
Infiniti QX80 specs
Engine: twin-turbocharged 3.5-liter V6
Power: 450hp
Torque: 700Nm
Price: From Dh450,000, Autograph model from Dh510,000
Available: Now
Stamp%20duty%20timeline
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Green ambitions
- Trees: 1,500 to be planted, replacing 300 felled ones, with veteran oaks protected
- Lake: Brown's centrepiece to be cleaned of silt that makes it as shallow as 2.5cm
- Biodiversity: Bat cave to be added and habitats designed for kingfishers and little grebes
- Flood risk: Longer grass, deeper lake, restored ponds and absorbent paths all meant to siphon off water
Scoreline
UAE 2-1 Saudi Arabia
UAE Mabkhout 21’, Khalil 59’
Saudi Al Abed (pen) 20’
Man of the match Ahmed Khalil (UAE)
FIGHT%20CARD
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EFeatherweight%204%20rounds%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%3Cbr%3EYousuf%20Ali%20(2-0-0)%20(win-loss-draw)%20v%20Alex%20Semugenyi%20(0-1-0)%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EWelterweight%206%20rounds%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%3Cbr%3EBenyamin%20Moradzadeh%20(0-0-0)%20v%20Rohit%20Chaudhary%20(4-0-2)%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EHeavyweight%204%20rounds%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%3Cbr%3EYoussef%20Karrar%20(1-0-0)%20v%20Muhammad%20Muzeei%20(0-0-0)%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EWelterweight%206%20rounds%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%3Cbr%3EMarwan%20Mohamad%20Madboly%20(2-0-0)%20v%20Sheldon%20Schultz%20(4-4-0)%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ESuper%20featherweight%208%20rounds%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%3Cbr%3EBishara%20Sabbar%20(6-0-0)%20v%20Mohammed%20Azahar%20(8-5-1)%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ECruiseweight%208%20rounds%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%3Cbr%3EMohammed%20Bekdash%20(25-0-0)%20v%20Musa%20N%E2%80%99tege%20(8-4-0)%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ESuper%20flyweight%2010%20rounds%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%3Cbr%3ESultan%20Al%20Nuaimi%20(9-0-0)%20v%20Jemsi%20Kibazange%20(18-6-2)%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ELightweight%2010%20rounds%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%3Cbr%3EBader%20Samreen%20(8-0-0)%20v%20Jose%20Paez%20Gonzales%20(16-2-2-)%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
'Champions'
Director: Manuel Calvo
Stars: Yassir Al Saggaf and Fatima Al Banawi
Rating: 2/5
'Cheb%20Khaled'
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The%20specs
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EEngine%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%206.5-litre%20V12%20and%20three%20electric%20motors%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPower%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E1%2C015hp%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETorque%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E1%2C500Nm%20(estimate)%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETransmission%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Eight-speed%20dual-clutch%20auto%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EOn%20sale%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Early%202024%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPrice%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EFrom%20Dh2%20million%20(estimate)%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
VEZEETA PROFILE
Date started: 2012
Founder: Amir Barsoum
Based: Dubai, UAE
Sector: HealthTech / MedTech
Size: 300 employees
Funding: $22.6 million (as of September 2018)
Investors: Technology Development Fund, Silicon Badia, Beco Capital, Vostok New Ventures, Endeavour Catalyst, Crescent Enterprises’ CE-Ventures, Saudi Technology Ventures and IFC
The specs
Engine: Dual 180kW and 300kW front and rear motors
Power: 480kW
Torque: 850Nm
Transmission: Single-speed automatic
Price: From Dh359,900 ($98,000)
On sale: Now
Other acts on the Jazz Garden bill
Sharrie Williams
The American singer is hugely respected in blues circles due to her passionate vocals and songwriting. Born and raised in Michigan, Williams began recording and touring as a teenage gospel singer. Her career took off with the blues band The Wiseguys. Such was the acclaim of their live shows that they toured throughout Europe and in Africa. As a solo artist, Williams has also collaborated with the likes of the late Dizzy Gillespie, Van Morrison and Mavis Staples.
Lin Rountree
An accomplished smooth jazz artist who blends his chilled approach with R‘n’B. Trained at the Duke Ellington School of the Arts in Washington, DC, Rountree formed his own band in 2004. He has also recorded with the likes of Kem, Dwele and Conya Doss. He comes to Dubai on the back of his new single Pass The Groove, from his forthcoming 2018 album Stronger Still, which may follow his five previous solo albums in cracking the top 10 of the US jazz charts.
Anita Williams
Dubai-based singer Anita Williams will open the night with a set of covers and swing, jazz and blues standards that made her an in-demand singer across the emirate. The Irish singer has been performing in Dubai since 2008 at venues such as MusicHall and Voda Bar. Her Jazz Garden appearance is career highlight as she will use the event to perform the original song Big Blue Eyes, the single from her debut solo album, due for release soon.
The specs: 2018 Nissan 370Z Nismo
The specs: 2018 Nissan 370Z Nismo
Price, base / as tested: Dh182,178
Engine: 3.7-litre V6
Power: 350hp @ 7,400rpm
Torque: 374Nm @ 5,200rpm
Transmission: Seven-speed automatic
Fuel consumption, combined: 10.5L / 100km
The%20specs
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The specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4-cyl turbo
Power: 201hp at 5,200rpm
Torque: 320Nm at 1,750-4,000rpm
Transmission: 6-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 8.7L/100km
Price: Dh133,900
On sale: now
Tips for job-seekers
- Do not submit your application through the Easy Apply button on LinkedIn. Employers receive between 600 and 800 replies for each job advert on the platform. If you are the right fit for a job, connect to a relevant person in the company on LinkedIn and send them a direct message.
- Make sure you are an exact fit for the job advertised. If you are an HR manager with five years’ experience in retail and the job requires a similar candidate with five years’ experience in consumer, you should apply. But if you have no experience in HR, do not apply for the job.
David Mackenzie, founder of recruitment agency Mackenzie Jones Middle East
The five pillars of Islam
Dubai Bling season three
Cast: Loujain Adada, Zeina Khoury, Farhana Bodi, Ebraheem Al Samadi, Mona Kattan, and couples Safa & Fahad Siddiqui and DJ Bliss & Danya Mohammed
Rating: 1/5
What is dialysis?
Dialysis is a way of cleaning your blood when your kidneys fail and can no longer do the job.
It gets rid of your body's wastes, extra salt and water, and helps to control your blood pressure. The main cause of kidney failure is diabetes and hypertension.
There are two kinds of dialysis — haemodialysis and peritoneal.
In haemodialysis, blood is pumped out of your body to an artificial kidney machine that filter your blood and returns it to your body by tubes.
In peritoneal dialysis, the inside lining of your own belly acts as a natural filter. Wastes are taken out by means of a cleansing fluid which is washed in and out of your belly in cycles.
It isn’t an option for everyone but if eligible, can be done at home by the patient or caregiver. This, as opposed to home haemodialysis, is covered by insurance in the UAE.
Indoor cricket World Cup:
Insportz, Dubai, September 16-23
UAE fixtures:
Men
Saturday, September 16 – 1.45pm, v New Zealand
Sunday, September 17 – 10.30am, v Australia; 3.45pm, v South Africa
Monday, September 18 – 2pm, v England; 7.15pm, v India
Tuesday, September 19 – 12.15pm, v Singapore; 5.30pm, v Sri Lanka
Thursday, September 21 – 2pm v Malaysia
Friday, September 22 – 3.30pm, semi-final
Saturday, September 23 – 3pm, grand final
Women
Saturday, September 16 – 5.15pm, v Australia
Sunday, September 17 – 2pm, v South Africa; 7.15pm, v New Zealand
Monday, September 18 – 5.30pm, v England
Tuesday, September 19 – 10.30am, v New Zealand; 3.45pm, v South Africa
Thursday, September 21 – 12.15pm, v Australia
Friday, September 22 – 1.30pm, semi-final
Saturday, September 23 – 1pm, grand final
War 2
Director: Ayan Mukerji
Stars: Hrithik Roshan, NTR, Kiara Advani, Ashutosh Rana
Rating: 2/5
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The President's Cake
Director: Hasan Hadi
Starring: Baneen Ahmad Nayyef, Waheed Thabet Khreibat, Sajad Mohamad Qasem
Rating: 4/5
'Unrivaled: Why America Will Remain the World’s Sole Superpower'
Michael Beckley, Cornell Press
The specs: 2019 Audi A8
Price From Dh390,000
Engine 3.0L V6 turbo
Gearbox Eight-speed automatic
Power 345hp @ 5,000rpm
Torque 500Nm @ 1,370rpm
Fuel economy, combined 7.5L / 100km
Name: Peter Dicce
Title: Assistant dean of students and director of athletics
Favourite sport: soccer
Favourite team: Bayern Munich
Favourite player: Franz Beckenbauer
Favourite activity in Abu Dhabi: scuba diving in the Northern Emirates
Who has been sanctioned?
Daniella Weiss and Nachala
Described as 'the grandmother of the settler movement', she has encouraged the expansion of settlements for decades. The 79 year old leads radical settler movement Nachala, whose aim is for Israel to annex Gaza and the occupied West Bank, where it helps settlers built outposts.
Harel Libi & Libi Construction and Infrastructure
Libi has been involved in threatening and perpetuating acts of aggression and violence against Palestinians. His firm has provided logistical and financial support for the establishment of illegal outposts.
Zohar Sabah
Runs a settler outpost named Zohar’s Farm and has previously faced charges of violence against Palestinians. He was indicted by Israel’s State Attorney’s Office in September for allegedly participating in a violent attack against Palestinians and activists in the West Bank village of Muarrajat.
Coco’s Farm and Neria’s Farm
These are illegal outposts in the West Bank, which are at the vanguard of the settler movement. According to the UK, they are associated with people who have been involved in enabling, inciting, promoting or providing support for activities that amount to “serious abuse”.
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EA Sports FC 25
Developer: EA Vancouver, EA Romania
Publisher: EA Sports
Consoles: Nintendo Switch, PlayStation 4&5, Xbox One and Xbox Series X/S
Rating: 3.5/5
